How to plan a road-trip around Karnataka (with pets)

Month of the trip: October 2022

The Indian state of Karnataka has been on our list for a really long time. Both of us had never visited it and were excited to see what mesmerizing landscapes it had to offer. Joining us on this trip were our two dogs – Jiraiya and Jeannie. We wanted to explore the towns at our own pace, slow and mindfully – absorbing the smells and sights – as much as we could in 15-20 days. It was certainly an epic road-trip!

Four crazy road trippers ready to explore the mysteries of Hampi.

Basic itinerary for a 2 week road-trip around Karnataka

Day 01 – Driving day – Mumbai, Maharashtra to Kohlapur, Maharashtra

Day 02 – Driving day – Kohlapur, Maharashtra to Gokarna, Karnataka

Day 03 – Explore day – Gokarna, Karnataka and surrounding areas

Day 04 – Driving day – Gokarna, Karnataka to Udupi, Karnataka

Day 05 – Explore day – Udupi, Karnataka and surrounding areas

Day 06 – Driving day – Udupi, Karnataka to Madikeri, Karnataka

Day 07 – Explore day – Madikeri, Karnataka and surrounding areas

Day 08 – Driving day – Madikeri, Karnataka to Bangalore, Karnataka

Day 09 – Explore day – Mysore, Karnataka and surrounding areas

Day 10 – Driving day – Mysore, Karnataka to Chikkamagaluru, Karnataka

Day 11 – Explore day – Chikkamagaluru, Karnataka and surrounding areas

Day 12 – Driving day – Chikkamagaluru, Karnataka to Hampi, Karnataka

Day 13 – Explore day – Hampi, Karnataka and surrounding areas

Day 14 – Driving day – Hampi, Karnataka to Solapur, Maharashtra

Day 15 – Driving day – Solapur, Maharashtra to Mumbai, Maharashtra

Ready ?? … we were born ready!

Considerations while finalizing the itinerary for our trip

1 ) How complex should be the itinerary? We had 25 days of leave, way less to see the sixth largest state in the country with so much to offer – we had to set our priorities. We decided to stick to the popular towns on our maiden trip and come again for other interesting areas.

2 ) What should be the drive time during the trip? As Sunny was the only person driving, we decided to keep the drive times not more than 4-6 hours. Plus, snack and washroom breaks for us, as well as our pooches, would surely add more time. A minimum of a 1-2 day gap between driving days would be necessary so Sunny could also relax and enjoy the location to the fullest.

3 ) Availability of pet-friendly accommodations? Traveling with kids, older people, and pets is never easy. It always pays to have pre-booked accommodation according to the needs. For us, we required open spaces and boiled chicken for both our dogs – and that was how we filtered our places to stay during the road trip. Most places charged additional pet charges, which was fine by us as long as four of us got a good night’s sleep and clean, comfortable, safe surroundings.

4 ) Personal modifications – Our start point was Mumbai. We had to include some days in Morjim, Goa and some in Bangalore, Karnataka to catchup with our cousins. So we drove to Puna from Mumbai and then to Morjim before traveling to Gokarna. In the second phase, we skipped Mysore and diverted to Bangalore before heading to Chikkamagaluru. This took up some of the extra days but we heartily enjoyed our time having fun with our relatives. Instead consider adding extra days in other towns based on interests.

5 ) Precaution – October is leech activity season in Karnataka, especially in the western ghats. The second half of November to May is a better time to visit if your interests involve setting your foot in the grass like us. We learnt it the hard way 😦

Map of our modified Karnataka roadtrip

Detailed itinerary for our modified 2 week road-trip around Karnataka

Day 01 | Mumbai, Maharashtra to Pune, Maharashtra.

If you are lucky like us and have a pad to crash in Pune, go for it. Another option is to stay in any pet-friendly hotel close to NH48.

Some pet friendly places to stay near Pune – One Earth retreat & Native place

Alternatively, stop at Heritage Resort, Kohlapur for the night stay. It is a highly recommended pet friendly place to stay.

Goa always gets biggest smiles!

Day 02 | Pune, Maharashtra to Morjim, Goa.

Drive time – 8 hours

Stayed at – Montego Bay

NH48 was excellent as usual but we had to get off it in Nipani, just beyond Kohlapur, and turn towards the coast. Soon we were crossing Amboli Ghat, one of the prettiest ghats in Maharashtra. This is the usual route for visiting northern Goa from Mumbai/Pune. For central and south, it’s better to deviate from Belgaum (check the time before you take this route as it goes through nature reserves and has time restrictions).

We spent the evening strolling on Morjim Beach and later gobbling some fried shrimps and noodles 😊

After a long beach frisbee session.

Day 03/4 | Local sightseeing in Goa.

While staying in Morjim, we started the day early to stroll on the beach and to watch the local fishermen taking stalk of their catch. We found some empty space and played frisbee with Jiraiya & Jeannie. Due to the surrounding fishing villages and Chapora river mouth, Morjim beach is a great spot for watching Olive ridley turtles and birds (psst.. If you walk up to the mouth of Chapora river, based on the season you can spot some waders in action or some Gulls gossiping, if lucky you might even find busy Pratincoles!)

Post breakfast, we hiked up to the Chapora fort across the river and got mesmerized by the views.

For lunch and drinks, visit Jardin d’ulysse on Morjim Beach (They have lovely pet-friendly stay options too). All that work calls for Susegad for the rest of the day 😀

Watch our YouTube episode here for this trip –

Day 05 | Morjim, Goa to Gokarna, Karnataka.

Drive time – 8 hours

Stayed at – Red Earth

Driving south on NH66 is extremely scenic. Its so unusual to see hills, creeks and sea all in the same frame. This route offers just that. On the way, while crossing Benaullim in Goa, don’t miss stopping at Beno for a quick snack for yourself and the doggos. The highway doesn’t necessarily go along the coast all the time, but a quick diversion is a great idea if you want to make a quick stopover at any of the scenic beaches of south Goa.

The bridge across wide and majestic river Kali marks the geographical entry into the state of Karnataka.

Our stay, Red earth was actually in Ankola, an hour before Gokarna. By the time we reached this beautiful property it was past sunset. There was not much to do except feast on their delicious Squid sukha, chicken curry and rice – and sleep!

One of the best beaches that we have been to – Honey beach, Ankola.

Day 06 | Local sightseeing in Gokarna.

This day can be utilized to visit Gokarna’s beaches, temples, and cafes. But we chose to visit the Yana caves. This mythological and geological wonder is must visit place when in the area. You can read the mythological story here and understand the geological significance here. This is a pet-friendly (on-leash please!) 3-kilometer hike that includes an easy uphill walk, stream crossing, and a flight of stairs. There is a stream that runs parallel to the path in the valley which can be accessed from some points later in the hike when it levels up.

Watch our YouTube episode here for this trip –

Day 07 | Gokarna, Karnataka to Udupi, Karnataka.

Drive time – 4 hours

Stayed at – Shimmering View

There are two options of routes on the way to Udupi from Gokarna depending on what holds interest. One is via Jog Falls tallest un-tiered waterfall in India and another via Murudeshwar. It was a very tough decision as both places were of our interest. Jog falls is a 1-2 hour diversion and not pet friendly and a quick Google search showed us that the waterfall was not in its full glory at the time and maybe a mid-monsoon month was better to visit the site. So, we stuck to NH66 and stopped over to see the second-largest Shiva statue in the world at Murudeshwar. The temple town has mythological significance, read the story here! Surrounded by water on three sides, it was a unique experience for us. The compound is pet friendly, but of course, the temple is not.

The coast never seizes to wow the travelers. At one point on one side of the highway was the vast Arabian Sea and on the other side Kolluru River. It’s one of the most unusual roads we have been on. Surely, NH66 is made for exciting road trips! Soon, we were crossing Udupi City and took the diversion towards the coast into the suburbs. We had our bookings in Shimmering View homestay which is in Kemannu on the banks of one of the estuaries of the Suvarna river delta.

Off to our deep sea adventure matey!

Day 08 | Local sightseeing in Udupi.

Udupi is most popular for its temples and fisheries. Temples, we could not visit because of our four-legged travel companions. Also, we had no mood for hustling with the temple crowd. The closest we got to the fisheries was the delicious, fleshy, juicy fried Mackerel marinated in Mangalorean recipes on our plates for every meal. We didn’t mind!

A great spot for exploration with pets is St. Mary’s Island, 3kms off the Udupi coast into the Arabian Sea. Apparently, it’s the first island Vasco de Gama set foot on when he came in search of India. Read the story here. This island is a geological marvel. It is essentially made of basalt columns formed due to volcanic activity. The best part is that pets are allowed on the island and it was such a cool adventure for Jiraiya and Jeanie to travel into the sea on a ferry!

Watch our YouTube episode here for this trip –

Day 09 | Udupi, Karnataka to Madikeri, Karnataka.

Drive time – 5 hours

Stayed at – Silverbrook homestay

Halfheartedly (yet excited!) we left the coast and turned towards the hills. The little love affair with NH66 came to an end on the northern borders of Mangalore. We divert into the Sahyadris. This highway had given us a lot of stunning memories and we hoped that we would be back on it someday and explore more what it has to offer. Winding roads up to Madikeri (formerly known as Coorg) are pretty in its own unique sense. The forest for the most part was dry in October but as we descended into the coffee valleys it became more and more wet and tropical.

Our homestay Silverbrook – an old traditional body with a young soul, was just a 10 min drive from the main town yet it seemed distant and quiet. Calmness all around it apart from a low rumble from the brook flowing a couple of feet below the estate and some unusual bird calls got us hooked to the place. The Kodava cuisine served on request just elevates the experience of the place. Even though it was raining continuously while we stayed here, we felt safe and cozy inside our huge room as it was sealed properly and we were not worried about creepy crawlies coming in. Poisonous or otherwise.

At the Mandalpatti peak (almost!)

Day 10 | Local sightseeing in Madikeri.

Just walking around in Coorg/Madikeri and Virajpet is rewarding in itself. The endless coffee plantations and rolling clouds through them are very relaxing and rejuvenating to the soul. The long winding roads, old estate bungalows, and echoing sounds of birds and langurs create an old-fashioned charm that we city kids really need.

Coorg or Madikeri is one of the oldest tourist spots of our country and has a ton of traditional sightseeing spots and viewpoints. We were traveling with our pet dogs and most of these places would be off-limits or overcrowded for our taste (it was after-all just after pandemic had subsided)

We started the day driving to Mandalpatti Peak. The road to the parking lot is very scenic. Only the last 1.5 km is slightly broken but manageable. Pets are not allowed beyond this parking lot – but 4×4 jeep (charged per seat) can be hired to visit the peak and enjoy the view.

Watch our YouTube episode here for this trip –

Day 011/12/13/14 | Madikeri, Karnataka (to Mysore) to Chikkamagaluru, Karnataka

Drive time – 5 hours

Stayed at – The Hidden Valley homestay, Chikkamagaluru

Driving in the suburbs of Madikeri is extremally rewarding. The calm scenery of sandalwood and coffee estates and large expanses of lush green paddy fields was very soothing. Our plan was to meet our cousins in Bangalore and because of that we by-passed Mysore and plunged into the never ending traffic of Bangalore city. Alternatively, Mysore would be a good place to stop for a couple of days before turning north towards Chikkamagaluru.

While we passed Mysore, we stopped at Brindavan gardens and enjoyed watching the gushing ever-powerful Kaveri river through the KRS dam. It was scary and pretty at the same time. Garden is off-limits for pets but an awesome view can be enjoyed from the parking lot and the bridges and roads leading to it. On the reservoir side of the dam, there are multiple fingers of the backwaters which can be enjoyed driving through the surrounding villages (observe google maps closely). Unfortunately, during our visit water level was too high and we kept our distance.

After spending a fun filled weekend with cousins, we headed towards Chikkamagaluru. On their suggestion we took a detour to see the submerged Shettihalli Rosary Church in the reservoir of Hemavati river. It was a stunning to see the arches of the old gothic structure peeping above the water surface graciously providing resting place for swooping River Turns in the middle of a large water body.

On the way to Chikkamagaluru there are multiple historic cities like Bellur and Hassan which are good stop overs for breaking the journey. But it was raining so heavily that we decided to drive ahead straight to our homestay.

Our stay for this part was booked in Nature’s Valley homestay, which is undoubtedly the best place to stay if you are in the right season. It is located on daily flying routes of the most unusual birds like Fairy blue and Golden throated Leaf bird. It is a bit far away from the tourist sites but is nestled right within the plantation and wild forest.

October is undoubtedly the leech season in Karnataka. Everywhere we went, especially in the ghats – we felt restricted as the monsoon was at an extreme level and so were the related bugs and crawlies. This stay was the worst in this aspect ONLY, the rooms were not sealed properly neither were they well lit. We were more conscious than relaxed and unfortunately, we had to cut short our stay here to get to the drier grounds. Their hospitality and Malnad food was spot on, and we would certainly come to live here when its a better season.

Looking out for Nilkurinji flowers on Mullayangiri peak 🙂

Day 15 | Local sightseeing in Chikkamagaluru.

Mullayanagiri is the highest peak in Karnataka, and fortunately for us, pets are allowed while hiking up to it. We decided not to hike the whole mountain but to park our car close to the last leg of the hike. The last 0.5 km to the peak.

Driving through the city and straight into the natural reserve – we were soon in the middle of a busy parking lot. It is a very popular tourist spot and it can get crazy with tourist busses pouring in and innumerable taxis parked haphazardly, so try to reach as early as possible. There is a clear stairway zig-zagging up to the temple on the summit. Everyone, including us takes enough breaks, enjoying the rolling clouds and photographing the rare Nilkurinji flowers which bloom every decade or so.

We had a very short stint in Chikkamangaluru, will surely be back here for more and to enjoy the extremely beautiful landscapes of this bountiful land.

Watch our YouTube episode here for this trip –

Day 16 | Chikkamangaluru, Karnataka to Hampi, Karnataka

Drive time – 5 hours

Stayed at – Hyatt Palace, Hampi (Bellary)

Hampi is one of the most unique places we have been to. Its historical, mythological, and geographical significance is extremely superior. It is a ‘must see’ place during this road trip. The road from Chikkamagaluru to Hampi is like a futuristic fantasy roadway it’s a six lane highway with hundreds and hundreds of gigantic windmills stretched over vast uninhabited (by humans) barren lands. The scattered giant rocks precariously balancing one on top of another transported us to a parallel universe or on a different planet. Tungabhadra the mighty river governs this landscape. It has proven to be the lifeline to this region since the beginning of time.

The huge ancient kingdom of Hampi on the banks of river Pampa was rich culturally and financially. The current one is a mere fraction of the size scattered between the ancient ruins and the now-called river Tungbhadra. On the outskirts (1hour away), in an industrial town named Bellary lie multiple steel plants. This JSW plant is gigantic and has goods train rolling in and out of it. It has its own township for the employees and that’s where Hyatt is. The Hampi town itself does not have many good pet-friendly accommodations unless you go for really budget places to stay. So, we decided to splurge a little and book a room in Hyatt Palace – pet-friendly and extremely comfortable.

Even though Jiraiya and Jeannie were not allowed inside the ancient ruins, they enjoyed all the historical and mythological stories about them with us.

Day 17/18 | Local sightseeing in Hampi.

It’s best to take a guide in Hampi. They have a half-day tour, a full-day one, and a multiple-day package covering adjacent towns as well. Depending on interests, price, and weather, go for what suits best from their rate card (tickets to each site is separate), but always opt for government-approved guides for the best experience. We had hired – Mr Manjunathan (+91 9482849978) for one day. He was very passionate, friendly, informative, and happy to accommodate our two dogs and their restrictions.

All the ruins that are open are pet friendly, but wherever there is a ticket counter and a boundary wall, we had to go one by one so the other one can take care of the dogs. Our guide thankfully did not mind telling the stories twice. Hampi deserves at least a 3-day visit. A good guide can tell a thousand stories about thousands of ruins around the region and yet leave space for your imagination.

We ended the day sitting on top of Malyavanta hill watching the sunset. The deep oranges and cool breeze got the four of us to contemplate the journey we had been on for the past two weeks and what was to come ahead. It was the best!

The natural reserves around Hampi are rich in wildlife and birdlife. Pets are not allowed in the sanctuaries but the drive from Bellary to Hampi and multiple water canals running through the towns can prove to be fruitful in spotting some grassland birds like Grey Francolins, Painted spurfowl, and Bush Quail. For better viewing of shy/rare birds like Painted Sandgrouse, Blue-faced Malkoha, and Indian Eagle Owl we connected with the popular and most respected bird/wildlife guide Mr Pompayya (+91 94808 59252), and booked him for the second day. Unfortunately, we had to split and Sunny went for bird photography on a hot day while I chilled in our five-star hotel room with the Jiraiya and Jeannie, legs up, ordering room service, snoozing, and playing ball in the garden (not so unfortunate after all!).

Next time we visit, we plan to book the guide for 3 days at least for a proper birding and wildlife spotting session. We could then also visit Daroji Sanctuary to spot some Indian sloth bears and Leopards.

… but open/free sites were pet friendly and we went for a closer look 🙂 Narsimha statue, scary for sure!

Day 19 | Hampi, Karnataka to Baramati, Maharashtra.

Drive time – 10-12 hours

On our way out of Hampi, we decided to stop over at Tungabhadra Dam. The vast view of the reservoir was awe-inspiring. After chilling there a bit we decided to keep going towards our next stop – Solapur, Maharashtra.

There are two ways to reach Pune from Hampi. One is via Belgavi & Kohlapur (NH48) and second way is to go via Vijaypura and Solapur (NH50). We had opted for latter so we could see a glimpse of Gol Gumbaz (tomb of Mhmd. Adil Shah), the largest dome in the country and second largest in the world (next in size only to St Peter’s Basilica in Rome). We could not go inside the compound but it definetly did not stop us from going around it outside it’s boundary and admiring the scale of the dome which is visible from kilometers away.

We had booked a night stay in Solapur but realized midway that we still had some more hours of sunlight and energy left and maybe its worth pushing a bit extra to reach our parents farm near Baramati instead. We diverted onto NH65 and reached home just after sunset.

Watch our YouTube episode here for this trip –

Day 20 | Baramati, Maharashtra to Mumbai, Maharashtra.

This one is easy and we knew it on the back of our hand. The busy state highway soon meets up with NH48 and via beautiful ghats of Lonavala we head home.

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Hope this blog has inspired you to plan your own road-trip around the state of Karnataka when (you are) on a break!.

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