Trip date – Beginning of November 2023
Cape of Good Hope has always featured in old sea farer’s tales as Cape of Storms till it was rebranded by the King of Portugal as Cape of Good Hope so the sailors would agree to cross the notorious tip of Africa. History has witnessed, there is hardly anything true behind the positive PR and rebranding – time and again… and again ships have tried to cross the Cape to reach Asia from Europe (and vise-versa) and time and again and again they have sunk or dragged to the shores to crash onto the mighty cliffs and pointy rocks by the strong Atlantic winds. Have you heard about the Flying Dutchmen (yes, from the movie Pirates of the Caribbean)? well, let’s just say this is where they went down under. 😊 Till very recently in the past century, the technologies have advanced and ships can navigate better, but still, the information from the local weather department and coastal guard is taken extremely seriously to navigate safely around the Cape.
We have been extremely excited about this day since the day we began planning our trip to South Africa and this was the first thing we had put on our list of ‘things to see’. After almost a week in Cape Town, it was finally our time to kick off our road trip on the Whale Coast of South Africa. We started from Hout Bay and next stop – Cape of Good Hope before we head on to Simon Town for the night.
Read on to see why this one day topped our list of ‘why I want to go back to South Africa, ASAP!’
I have divided this blog into 3 parts for better understanding.
- Chapman’s Drive & Coastal Drive to Cape Point
- Cape Point National Park (Cape Peninsula – Southern part of Table Mountain National Park)
- Cape Point & Cape of Good Hope
Chapman’s Drive & Coastal Drive to Cape Point
The 10 km drive from Hout Bay to the village of Noordhoek around Chapman’s Peak is known as Chapman’s Peak Drive. Beyond Noordhoek the coastal road continues till Cape Point Nature Reserve entry gate. The full extent of the coastal road from Hout Bay to Cape of Good Hope National Park is in itself a top attraction for locals as well as tourists when visiting this region.
Chapman’s Peak Drive section is a toll road (Keep cash in hand, it’s usually within 100ZAR) and has a lot of viewpoints where cars can be parked to one side carefully and the panoramic views can be enjoyed. They have put up benches and tables along with Braai grills (South African-style barbeque) in these picnic pockets where anyone can come and enjoy a little chill time free of cost (apart from the toll off course).
Once the Chapman peak drive is over, the road ahead meanders along the coast around the base of the continuous mountain range (all part of Table Mountain National Park). It goes between and sometimes borders huge farms, small resort villages, and fishing villages. There was never a dull moment on this road.
On one side we were mesmerized by the vast South Atlantic Ocean showing off all shades of blues and greens and white sandy beaches. On the other side, we enjoyed the colorful foliage of the Fynbos belt of the Cape floral kingdom, as colorful as ever. Every now and then we paused to observe birds thriving in Table Mountain National Park.
The main gate to Cape Point National Park opens at 6 am but the Point itself opens only around 9 am and by this time tourist buses start coming in. We left early from Hout Bay so we could have a leisurely drive (it’s essentially only an hour-long drive) while doing birdwatching and enjoying the view yet reach before the crowd reaches Cape Point. Getting up early is totally worth it! The route to Cape Point is a trailer of what’s to come. This drive gives the true meaning to the phrase ‘journey is as beautiful as the destination’ (hahaha… oh, isn’t that the saying? Anyway, its true!). Anywhere you see, it’s a postcard landscape.
Cape Point National Park
The 500 square kilometer plateau before Cape Point is called as Cape of Good Hope National Park or Cape Point National Park. It’s a southern sub-section of Table Mountain National Park which in itself is a rich pool of unique flora and fauna not found anywhere in the world.
Tickets to Cape Point National Park can be bought online here but we bought it on spot as we were early and there was no line. Smits Winkel Bay Viewpoint is just a 2min drive from Cape Point National Park entrance gate and a great spot to sit, relax and absorb the reality of the beautiful scenery. There is an info board here where we read the history of False Bay over which this viewpoint overlooks. The history is full of horrors of shipwrecks and false assumptions/calculations made by seasoned sailors traveling from Europe to Asia. They would think they have crossed to the Cape of Storms and would go along the land on the other side but the misleading fog of False bay would make them crash into the land soon after. From this viewpoint it’s easily visible that the eastern edge of the peninsula is only cliffs and no beaches. Buffle’s bay beach is an exception and is worth a stop over if time permits. In season, whales can easily be spotted from here.
Starting from Smits Winkel’s viewpoint and going towards Cape Point we crossed the plateau with a very unique meadow landscape with rocky outcrops. Some of the shrubs from the Fynbos family were blooming and some had coloured leaves. With every turn, the colour of flora changed from warm tones to red tones to white tones then back to green tones. We were mesmerized by just looking out to the vast expanse of this nature reserve. Now and then we would stop to admire the landscape and click a bird or a bee or a beetle.
Soon we came across a platoon of Cape Chacma Baboons. They have been reducing in numbers due to habitat loss and negative human interactions but with the hard work of the forest rangers they are on their way to recovery. The rangers try to reduce human conflict by keeping a close eye on the traveling troops. While this particular platoon was passing our stationary car, one of them decided to walk over our car (off-course there are no pictures, we were busy gasping!). We were thankful to see a ranger following the platoon on foot, this meant that they are going to be safe while the tourist cars zoom in and out irresponsibly throughout the day. Cape Point is one of the top attractions of Cape Town after-all and is often enjoyed as a half day trip. Sadly this means that ignorant tour operators or day trippers have no time or patience to waste waiting for wildlife.
Every other moment in this nature reserve is an Oh my god moment followed by a gasp and disbelief – just go slow and observe the surroundings. It can be the wild waves crashing on the rocks or it can be the changing colors of the fynbos or it can be a yellow Bishop holding a waving reed in the wind shining like sunshine or it can be a tortoise crossing the road slowly and steadily or a curious teenage Ostrich picking up a fight with his reflection on the car windscreen. There were too many to list here. I am overwhelmed. You have to be there to believe it.
We did not deviate from the main road while going towards Cape Point as we wanted to reach as soon as possible before all the tourist group busses. Once we were done with the main attractions and points we were free to explore the sub roads and quieter section of the reserve. Which was certainly extremely rewarding. For example, we took the loop called Circular Drive where we did not see any cars for miles and miles but were rewarded with the best and first-ever sightings of Bontebok, mountain Zebras, and many birds!
On our return route from Cape of Good Hope parking we drove along the western coast of the peninsula which has a bunch of beaches to chill and many tidal pools to investigate. We could have, but did not do beach hopping along the coast of Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve due to weather conditions (it had started to rain). Just walking on these beaches can be rewarding for wildlife and nature enthusiasts. The strong currents often maroon a lot of marine life on these beaches – which also attracts a lot of sea birds. These beaches are home to multiple shipwrecks too which are worth checking out. Most famous beaches being, Olifantbos, Platboom and Maclear.
Cape Point & Cape of Good Hope
Within the National Park or the whole Cape Peninsula, there are two main sights of interest for almost all visitors, local or foreign – Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope. They are both most south – western points of the peninsula, Cape Point being more southern. None of the points are the southern most point of Africa, but nothing can beat the dramatic representation of the tip of the continent here. There is no separate ticket to enter these touristy areas, it’s included in the fee paid at the national park entrance gate.
Cape Point : Location of the most photographed lighthouse of this coast built above scary sandstone cliffs directing the passing ships off the Cape of Storms, Cape Point is one of the most visited sights in South Africa. The height of this Old lighthouse often led it to hide within the clouds failing it’s purpose, so some decades back the authorities built a new lower one further into the tapering cape visible from the old lighthouse. The New lighthouse is not easily accessible and should be avoided due to safety concerns.
We reached the parking lot of Cape Point while it was still devoid of tourists. Parking at Cape Point is free of cost at the moment but we tipped the care taker/parking attendant, its customary. There are two phases in the path leading to the Old Lighthouse. First is the winding slope from the parking lot to the first viewpoint and second is the stone stairs till the lighthouse. SANParks runs a funicular named Flying Dutchmen which starts from the parking lot and goes parallel to the slop section to the first viewpoint, tickets can be bought here online, we bought it on the spot as we were first in line. We decided to take the funicular for going up and hike down later exploring the loops and trails.
Phase 2 of the journey to the old lighthouse are the stairs. There are many and climbing them is exhausting. We took lots of breaks and clicked lot of photos while catching a breath.
The view from the old lighthouse/highest viewpoint is breathtaking. The old lighthouse rewards travelers with gorgeous panoramic views of False Bay meeting the Atlantic Ocean. We saw the tip where the land very dramatically ends and the shear drop of the cliff into the South Atlantic Ocean. The whole world seems to be behind you when you are facing the Ocean. Except of course some scientists working in Antarctica a few miles ahead.
There are multiple viewpoints on trails going down to the parking lot and excellent views of the Cape Point and the rocky outcrops below can be enjoyed from here. Everywhere we saw, we wanted to imprint the view in our memory. Needless to say, our phone and camera memory were stuffed with endless panoramas – one better than the next. In season, whales can easily be spotted from here.
The trail going down diverts into another longer trail going left called Cape Peninsula Wooden Walkway. This boardwalk snakes between fynbos bush and shrubs for almost half a kilometer – it ends at another cliff viewpoint from where we could walk down the steep steps to reach Cape of Good Hope – a more westward point near Maclear Beach. It is an extremely beautiful trail and must be done if possible at least one way. However, we did not take this diversion as we had parked our car at the Cape Point parking lot and wanted to avoid the back loop. It’s easy if there is a driver who can get the vehicle to the Cape of Good Hope parking so its just a one way hike.
There are two eateries near the parking lot of Cape Point. A fancy restaurant Two Oceans, where we didn’t go, and a café – Cape Point food shop which had very delicious sandwiches and coffee/beer with outdoor seating. We were lucky and there were no baboons when we were picnicking near the café. But if they are, please avoid interactions. There is a cool souvenir shop too in this area from where we picked a few souvenirs.
Cape of Good Hope : Tummies full, we drove to the second point ‘Cape of Good Hope’ just a couple of kilometers westward. Its an easily accessible viewpoint, best for people who may find it difficult to reach Cape Point due to mobility issues. This point is pretty straight foreword. Park the car, walk a bit, pose behind the board stating the co-ordinates and that’s it – you have a memory of the life time.
Besides photo ops, we enjoyed some time siting on the rocks and enjoying the crashing waves. We saw some waders, oyster catchers, gulls, Hadada Ibis and off course super lazy families of Cape Fur Seals.
As the sun started to set it was time for us to exit the National park and we promised to stay in one of the cabins/cottages closer or inside the national park next time. A visit to Cape Point National Park deserves a whole day or two if not more. It was unbelievable that such wildlife and unique biodiversity could be casually viewed so close to one of the busiest cities. If you get off the main tourist roads and spots, there is so much to see in the nature reserve – time just flies away. We just had to be patient and observant, and we were graciously rewarded with most memorable time. Can’t wait to get back!
Safety radar – Starting from the top. Chapman peak drive can be a dangerous winding road with all drivers getting distracted by the views and speeding up unnecessarily. It’s better to drive slowly and stop at every viewpoint to stay alive. Believe it or not, falling down the beautiful cliffs is fatal. 🙂 The coastal road goes through some villages and towns, it’s advised to not give a lift to strangers and to keep the doors locked.
Visitors are allowed to get out of their cars and walk in the Cape Point National Park. The most important thing to remember is that it’s a nature reserve. It is home to many animals, birds, insects, reptiles and amphibians. Please drive slowly and keep your distance from them. Stop the car if they are close to avoid accidents. They are wild animals and can cause harm and will surely get harmed due to negligence. Be careful while getting out of the car, make sure no animals, etc… are close to you or the car.
Cape of Good Hope /Cape Point is far from any petty crimes. A ticket needs to be bought to enter the reserve which keeps the riff-raff away. Please don’t flash food everywhere as it attracts baboons. In general, just be alert to the surroundings and practice common sense. The whole of peninsula receives extremely strong winds from all directions. More so at Cape Point around the old lighthouse it can cause imbalance while climbing up or clicking pictures, extra precaution is necessary. It can make walking exhausting.
Enjoy our little vlog of the trip here –
To read more about the Cape Peninsula, Cape town, South Africa – Check these informative website :
https://capepoint.co.za/
https://danesontheroad.com/africa/south-africa/the-perfect-cape-peninsula-road-trip/
https://thefynbosguy.com/cape-point-wildlife/
https://wandercapetown.com/adventures/cape-point-nature-reserve/
Hope this blog has inspired you to plan your trip to Cape of Good Hope, Cape Town, South Africa when (you are) on a break!.
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When on a Break! 
Such a beautifully illustrated article. You guys were really lucky to see so many birds and the chubby Zebras 😍! Tuxedo crow was my favourite. 😁
Heheh… yeah. For us Indians, its unimaginable that crows can be so fancy 😄. Thank you for enjoying the blog 🙂