Trip date – Mid March 2024
The desert or Rann of Gujarat has been appearing in our conversations for many years now. Those colourful TV adverts where Amitabh Bachan invites everyone to the colourful Rann Utsav to romantic Bollywood numbers. Rann as it’s called locally is not a typical desert by definition. Yes, it’s dry and sandy. However, it’s not the usual kind found in Rajasthan or Arabia with dunes and all that. Its vast dry lands were under the Arabian Sea centuries ago. Due to seismic activities, it rose above the water, creating a saline barren ecosystem with a harsh climate. The ecosystem features restrictive vegetation, particularly thorny shrubs and succulents. It also supports resilient birdlife and wildlife. This region is called ‘Kutch.’ It is extremely unique, with the Thar desert on one side and the Gulf of Kutch on the other.
The economy in this region is supplemented by handicrafts, tourism, cotton and castor plantation. It’s challenging to grow anything here, and most families survive on a frugal nomadic lifestyle. Some big corporations are mining minerals from these rich lands, which pumps in some money. But it does not reach the lower levels of the pyramid.
The Rann is divided into 2 parts Little and Greater. We spent some beautiful couple of days in both of them. We also included Mandvi, a coastal town in southern Kutch, in our itinerary to enjoy some beach time. We travelled with our two fur babies, Jiraiya and Jeannie. This limited our wildlife adventures. Yet, each viewing was precious. Read on for details!
Driving from Mumbai to Kutch
Before the first ray of dawn, mid-March we started on our long road trip north towards Gujarat. It was bright by the time we stopped for breakfast just before the Vaitarna River in Palghar. Driving on Nh48 was very challenging on this particular day. Large-scale road repair was going on till the Maharashtra border and it made the drive very exhausting. NH48 from Mumbai to Vadodara goes through many industrial areas. These areas lie on the outskirts of big towns like Surat and Baruch. It’s surely not a scenic road trip. It’s also one of the busiest trade highways. It is full of trucks of various sizes. Two-wheeler and tempos are also common. Once we crossed over to Gujarat’s side of the border, the roads were of better quality and wider. Ambika, Tapi and finally Narmada – we crossed over many beautiful rivers and man-made canals.
We had booked our mid-way night stay at Vadodara – Hotel Prince Inn. It is right on the highway. The inn is very basic and looks a bit dodgy. However, it was okay for our purpose. It was pet-friendly, although it’s a vegetarian inn and does not provide dog food/boiled chicken. It gave us a bed to crash at night both ways. The hotel is on the 3rd floor of a shopping complex. There are some eateries on the lower level. We explored them in the evening and tried some Gujarati snacks like Khathiya.
Little Rann of Kutch (Dasada)
Little Rann of Kutch is the salt marsh area including and around Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary. This is not a naturally thriving land. It is completely dry and has scarce natural resources. But it would also be a big mistake to ignore the unique ecosystem of this area. The Indian Wild Ass is rare because of overhunting. They are the mascot of this arid land. They feast on the saline vegetation. The annual migration of birds attracts a lot of tourists. Recently, a couple of families of desert foxes are attracting a lot of wildlife photographers too.
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Rann Riders is arguably the best option to stay near Little Rann of Kutch. Lucky for us, its very much pet-friendly (they provide boiled chicken too!). It is owned by the local royal family on the outskirts of Dasad. Khallifa (hotel operators) renovate, maintain, and run it. It is an excellent choice of stay to explore the Rann. It has been hosting guests since 30 years.
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Cottages are made in the traditional Bhunga style and were extremely spacious and luxurious. We had included all three meals in our package with 2 safaris into the Wild Ass Sanctuary. The meal buffet at all times was lavish and delicious beyond compare. We really enjoyed every bit of it. The property includes a stable with royal steeds and a private hunting range. They had no dogs on property (earlier there were a few). Staff was extremely loving to ours, even agreed to babysit them so we could go and enjoy the safaris. Oh, how I wish we had more of such hotels!!
Spending 2 days minimum is advised. A longer winter (nov-feb) period would be fruitful for wildlife enthusiasts and nature lovers. The shallow, saline, marshy waters attract a lot of winter migrants and waders. Unfortunately, we were there mid-March, which is just after winter and the beginning of the long, dry, hot summer. Monsoon visits are not advised, as the Rann, being a low-lying area, is submerged completely in water and is inaccessible.
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We started at dawn from Vadodara. We reached Rann Riders at lunchtime. We spent the evening relaxing by exploring the property and playing with our dogs.
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Next morning was our first safari with our guide and driver, Murad. Words can not describe the vast arid lands of Little Rann of Kutch. It is nothing, yet everything. It is dry saline land, not dead land. The specialised wildlife and plant life call it their home. Unfortunatly, it’s sold as barren land, and human encroachment of this land is not justifiable at all. Human activities/industries/settlements and feral dogs that come with it is extremly harmful for the rare wildlife that lives here.
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Jiraiya and Jeannie were well taken care off by the staff during our safari. We spent the evening and next morning exploring the property and playing with J&J.
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Next afternoon was our second safari. Murad, our driver and guide, took us to the salt pans. Only a few permitted families reside there. They harvest salt on the littlee rann of Kutch.
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The golden sun radiating off the vast golden land makes sunsets here one of the best in the world. Golden glowing coats of roaming herd of Wild Ass added to the magic.
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Talking of magic, our excitement rose tenfold as Murad turned over a mud ridge. We spotted two pointed ears poking above a mud ridge between the dry shrubs. It turned out to be a pair of curious fox pups. This spark of life in this ‘dead-looking’ land was the ultimate sighting for us. Desert foxes are nocturnal animals. They usually get out of the den at dusk. They are back in by dawn. The mother of these naughty kids sneaked out in front of us. She trotted ninja-like across the pan. She stopped a bit to observe us. Then, she very trustingly trotted on to search for food. I am so thankful that most locals and conservationists are taking steps in the right direction for it to build this trust. Today, this mother fox could easily leave her kids carefreely in front of a couple of enthusiastic humans. Unfortunately, feral dogs from surrounding villages are the biggest threat to their existence and need urgent attention.
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Jiraiya and Jeanie welcomed us once we were back at the Rann Riders. We had been getting regular videos from the staff of them playing, snacking and sleeping peacefully. We will always appreciate the staff at Rann Riders. They took care of our kids while we explored and enjoyed the bounty of their beautiful Rann.
Kutch Coast (Mandvi)
Mandvi was once India’s busiest port and a hub for both sea and land trade. It was the choice of port for trade between Arab countries and Northern Gujarat and Rajasthan. If you imagine the state of Gujrat on the map as the side view of a roaring lion, Mandvi is where the upper canine would be. 😀
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We chose to stay in Vijay Vilas Heritage resort for the two nights we were there. Even though we read online before booking that it was pet-friendly, it was not. They were kind enough to spare the end cottage for our furry kids and us. Bless them! Sadly, our room was not worth the money. Lesson learnt. The resort is within the compound of Vijay Vilas Palace. It has a side dirt road access to a non-commercial/private beach. The beach is maintained by the royal family’s trust. It’s quiet, it’s super clean and really long. It attracts a lot of waders and seabirds. Unfortunately, we were in the wrong season; winter migration had already ended. Plus side, we got a lot of quality time to run around and play with our dogs, peacefully.
Pro wildlife tip: I encourage all wildlife enthusiasts to be patient with the woodlands surrounding the Vijay Vilas compound and the access to the beach. It is full of unique wildlife if you just look around and observe.
Anyone who has an eye for beauty, art, and architecture would fall in love with Vijay Vilas Palace in Mandvi. This palace was made by the royal family of Kutch in 1930 as a summer retreat. It was the shooting location for Lagaan and Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam, the two Bollywood super blockbusters! This stunning architectural marvel is built in Rajputana style and has an array of artifacts inside. The entry ticket is reasonably priced. I went alone to see the palace while Sunny did (fur)babysitting and setting the car for our departure. First, I started by exploring the flourishing, well-maintained gardens surrounding the palace. Then I moved closer to the palace. I was surprised to see the intricate jali work. The carvings on the palace walls were also remarkable. Just like the genuine Rajasthani palaces. Visitors can go inside to explore. I decided not to go because it was getting late. Sunny was waiting in the blistering heat. Maybe I could have planned this visit better. Well, anyway!
Being such an important hub for land and sea trade, it was also ideal for the shipbuilding industry. Today, centuries later, huge, imposing under-construction wooden ships (called Dhow) loom over the side of the road. These ships are made by craftsmen. They have skills passed down by their forefathers.
Fun trivia! Dabeli, enjoyed by so many Maharashtrians and Gujaratis, is actually from here. We ordered it with tea, it was yum but forgot to photograph it. 🙁
Greater Rann of Kutch (Dholavira)
The great Rann of Kutch is world’s second largest salt deserts, second to Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia. The Greater Rann of Kutch begins from Bhuj. It covers everything north of it until the Thar Desert is reached. Like Little Rann of Kutch, the region is also dry, arid and visually dead. Yet, in reality it’s below sea level altitude helps in creating a unique ecosystem of its own. During monsoon, the water level rises on these barren lands. As the dry season approaches, all of it evaporates. This creates a magical white (salt) desert.
We were here after the Kutch kite festival, so all the crazy crowds were gone. But it also meant we had missed the migratory season of birds. The heat of the sun was beginning to be unbearable. Our stay was booked in pet-friendly, Rann Resort Dholavira. Its located right next to the end of Road of Heaven, at Dholavira entrance. Our window overlooked the great white expanse of Lower Kutch Lake.
March is one of the best times to visit the lake. The salt surface glows beautifully on a full moon night. We were lucky. The staff offered to take us and the kids out on the dried up lake. This made for a magical experience. Walking on crystals is a surreal experience. It is dangerous though, like ice, the salt layer might be too thin in some places. Once, Sunny’s leg poked a hole in the ground and came back up with black gooey stuff on it. Yuk!
This land was under the Arabian Sea millions of years ago. Active tectonic displacement caused the sea water to recede. This left marine fossils, minerals, and a unique landscape. As per my geologist cousin, it is a paradise for geologists and amateur rock enthusiasts!
Dholavira is also famous for its ancient ruins, which are part of the Indus Valley Civilisation. Such ruins have been excavated from Jammu to the western edges of Pakistan. This one, in particular, is very well maintained and offers regular guided tours.
To summarize, days during mid-end March are super hot, dawn and dusk are better. It considerably reduces the hours you can explore outdoors. There are not many places to see indoors, at least not with dogs. I was regularly checking the ground heat. I used my bare feet to decide if J&j should step on it or not. Next time, maybe we might plan a Gujarat road trip in January? it would be a great time to see rare migratory birds, too. The roads in the desert can be long and empty. We observed that there were scarce petrol pumps, no eateries (and washrooms) along the roads like we are used to seeing in Maharashtra. No towns selling colourful cloths, toys, snacks, and groceries along the roads. Maybe that’s how you experience the local nomadic life. Pack your snacks at the source. Talking of nomadic life, it’s best to enjoy the local cuisine here. Do not expect fancy Indian or Western food and all options are vegetarian, of course. We certainly had to develop a taste for authentic Kutchi food. Only a few places welcome dogs, and we couldn’t find many that would provide boiled chicken to them. Thankfully, we carried pre-sealed cooked food for them.
That’s all, folks! That’s all we did during our roadtrip in the region of Rann of Kutch with our pets. Hope we have inspired you to plan your roadtrip When (you are) on a Break!
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